Success with New Welded Auger Tube - back to 600

[Sudz]

This pellet compression and associated auger failures seem to be an aspect of the auger going in reverse. I can't help but wonder why this is necessary on this grill?

Has anyone looked at the wiring on this motor to understand specifically what type of DC 24 volt motor it is. How many wires are coming from the motor? Is it a stepper motor or a simple DC motor?

 

[JetRanger]

That shows how much force was being applied by the compressed pellets as they bite into the seam where the gasket is on the old chute assembly, slowing down the auger and thus the feed rate of pellets. To me the cotter pin may be causing the problem. It sticks out preventing pellets from escaping the auger and breaks them into powder which then compresses. If that were replaced with a flush fastener would that stop the pellets from compressing?

FWIW, short of installing a roll pin, it made no sense to me to bend the legs of the cotter pin into the tight area of the auger like the instructions in the welded chute upgrade. To me, if pellets are getting crushed, why compact them in such a small area and exasperate the problem? So, I installed it so the head of the cotter pin was in the small area and the legs are in the wide open area. Seems to work fine, I'm now getting no temp roll backs at all. But I'm leery of the longevity of my motor because of how much I had to pry and beat it to remove that auger.

Today the new Rev F auger motor assembly showed up from Weber with the auger attached to the motor, and low and behold, it was assembled the same way that I built it up, with the bent legs of the cotter pin towards the open side of the auger.

I also wonder if people having trouble with temps fluctuating have a sheared cotter pin like mine had. Under no load it certainly would feed pellets, but the auger could definitely slip on the motor shaft causing an intermittent feed condition.

 

[JetRanger]

This pellet compression and associated auger failures seem to be an aspect of the auger going in reverse. I can't help but wonder why this is necessary on this grill?

Has anyone looked at the wiring on this motor to understand specifically what type of DC 24 volt motor it is. How many wires are coming from the motor? Is it a stepper motor or a simple DC motor?

It has a 6 pin connector and a circuit board on it. I think it could be a stepper motor. The board could be an integrated electronic speed controller. But, I don't think its a brushed DC motor. I may take apart the old Rev. D motor after I replace it and find out.

 

[Jeremybanjo]

Hi,

I have changed all the pieces they sent me. And after only two meal it said grill flame is out again. I can't stand that bbq anywmore. Why does it still keep shutting down!!!!!!

 

[abmet]

Hi,

I have changed all the pieces they sent me. And after only two meal it said grill flame is out again. I can't stand that bbq anywmore. Why does it still keep shutting down!!!!!!

That really sucks.

 

[Brad S]

Hi,

I have changed all the pieces they sent me. And after only two meal it said grill flame is out again. I can't stand that bbq anywmore. Why does it still keep shutting down!!!!!!

That is very strange. Do you experience frequent power spikes or inconsistent power quality to your house Like brown outs or fluctuations in voltage?

 

[dudemcnally]

That is very strange. Do you experience frequent power spikes or inconsistent power quality to your house Like brown outs or fluctuations in voltage?

Yes, I run my WSF on a UPS. I had a cook interrupted by a brownout at my house...said 'no more' and put it on a UPS. You can get a power conditioning UPS fairly inexpensively and it will resolve problems if you're having power fluctuations. Also check that your cord is plugged firmly into the bottom of the smokefire and be sure to use the velcro strap to relieve the hanging pressure that could cause it to come loose

 

[Bruno]

Seared some steaks tonight 21 minutes to 600F from selecting the temperature on the knob.View attachment 790View attachment 791View attachment 792

PERFECTION!!

 

[MikeM]

I’m able to hit 600 but only after a fresh grill clean up and at first try. If I try to do it from a lower temp (like a reverse sear) or if I cooked with it once after a clean up I can never get past 540. I emailed Weber support today see if they think the new chute/Auger combo will be of any help. I have the latest software and firmware, and rev F auger.

No problems holding any temps on long cooks so that’s good. Most of my cooks have been low and slow, and fantastic results.

I just finished installing the welded shoot set it for 200 to make sure it was working correctly. Then I finished putting covers on and cranked it to 600. From 200 sready state I hit 600 in 8 min and 36 seconds I kept it there for 10 or 15 min then shut it down. Seemy to be working great now. My old assembly had sawdust jamming the gasket out. It was a mess. And it had been a machine assembled replacement.

 

[MikeM]

That shows how much force was being applied by the compressed pellets as they bite into the seam where the gasket is on the old chute assembly, slowing down the auger and thus the feed rate of pellets. To me the cotter pin may be causing the problem. It sticks out preventing pellets from escaping the auger and breaks them into powder which then compresses. If that were replaced with a flush fastener would that stop the pellets from compressing?

Prior to installing my new welded shoot I looked insidea and noticed where the shoot meets the tube the tube hole is about 1/8" smaller than the shoot so I took a die grinder and enlarged it and smother it out. I also put a little furnace cement on the side edges to smooth that transition. The new auger has a weld on the end now to get rid of the abrupt edge I also ground that smooth and filled a few holes with furnace cement. Now it's all smooth as a baby's bottom.

 

[MikeM]

That shows how much force was being applied by the compressed pellets as they bite into the seam where the gasket is on the old chute assembly, slowing down the auger and thus the feed rate of pellets. To me the cotter pin may be causing the problem. It sticks out preventing pellets from escaping the auger and breaks them into powder which then compresses. If that were replaced with a flush fastener would that stop the pellets from compressing?

When installed the new shoot and auger I put the cotter pin into a vice and flarrened the loop and shortened the pin to about a 1/4" longer than the hole it's a little tougher to bend over but there's now much less to chop up the pellets working great so far.

 

[MikeM]

That shows how much force was being applied by the compressed pellets as they bite into the seam where the gasket is on the old chute assembly, slowing down the auger and thus the feed rate of pellets. To me the cotter pin may be causing the problem. It sticks out preventing pellets from escaping the auger and breaks them into powder which then compresses. If that were replaced with a flush fastener would that stop the pellets from compressing?

Modifications to the cotter pin to keep it from chewing things up

That shows how much force was being applied by the compressed pellets as they bite into the seam where the gasket is on the old chute assembly, slowing down the auger and thus the feed rate of pellets. To me the cotter pin may be causing the problem. It sticks out preventing pellets from escaping the auger and breaks them into powder which then compresses. If that were replaced with a flush fastener would that stop the pellets from compressing?

Here's a pin mod to fix grinding possibility

 

[FredSC]

Hello FredSC,

How about the cooks/ will it constantly reach 600 F and also fast (about 20 min) and can it keep low & Slow 250 F
Thanxs i hope it solves the real problem

Several cooks now at 600 F, no issues with the new welded chute getting to 600F quickly. Sears great!